Day three and all is well

As I write I am sitting in a pension in a place called Zubiri.  It was long hard day to get here, as those who have walked before would know, there are a lot of ups and downs and I had to contend with ice, which was left over from snow falls a few weeks ago.  I really had to keep my wits about me because to step on it would have meant that I could have had a nasty accident!  Too early in the trip for that to happen.

Accommodation and companions have been interesting.  I was still deciding as I arrived in Bayonne as to whether I would stay or push on. When I discovered the last train left in half an hour I decided to push on, arriving at the pilgrm office in St John Pied de Port around 8.00.

From there I was taken to the albergue which I shared that night with 6 Australians from Darwin (2 brother's in law walking with their sons), 2 Italian men, 1 Paraguayan, and 1 Englishman!

It was not a good place to rest as the 2 senior Aussies were up at 4.30, and everyone was up at 6.00.  I took my time reorganising my pack and set off soon after 8.00 in the frosty dawn gloom.  I only had 12 kms to go via Valcarlos, and so I could enjoy the sights, sounds, and smells.  There was a frosty haze for most of the morning and I was still passing frost at midday, though the day was sunny.

I saw no other pilgrims on the way, my companions from the night before having long since disappeared on their journey up and over the mountain.

Not expecting any coffee breaks until the days journey ended, I was delighted to discover a bar on the outskirts of Arneguy.  A bar is a bit of a misnomer as there was a whole series of shops - supermarket, clothes, bags, household items and such like.  I think this must have been something to do with tax free shopping.

The village of valcarlos was lovely, and the albergue was a real delight, snug and warm, complete with luxury items such as a washing machine and a well equipped kitchen, though I didn't need that as the bar around the corner supplied scrumptious meals!

I enjoyed a restful and solitary night in the albergue and a leisurely and solitary journey up and over the mountain the next day.  Leisurely of necessity!  Parts of the path were quite steep.  The day was mild, even hot at times and as I walked I could hear the wind, at times roaring, on the other side of the valley though I was generally protected.  Protected until I got to the pass - then I was nearly blown off my feet!  Needless to say I didn't linger too long to admire the view!

As I climed higher I started passing patches a snow, or I should say, ice.  It had been lying around for quite sometime and I had to take care not to slip on it.  A bit different from when Elizabeth and I descended in 2007, when we had to be careful not to slip on the clay - I did that time, many times!

The monastery at Roncesvalles had huge patches of snow lying in courtyards and shady corners, but our dormitory was toasty warm.  So much so that I slept most of the night in just my inner sheet.

My companions have changed.  There were 3 Italians, two Koreans who had met on the way, and the Paraguayan man again.  There are many more pilgrims than I expected so far.

I had patches of snow almost all the way down from Roncesvalles.  The day was fine, cold, and cloudy, with a biting wind blowing.  My bare legs have caused comment (I am wearing icebreaker knee length Capri pants).  Others seem to set off with overtrousers, jackets, scarves, beanies and gloves.  My concession to walking in the cold is my beanie (mostly 1, though the second is there if I need it) and little icebreaker gloves for the first hour or so.  My down jacket surfaces at night when I go out.

I began this blog before bed last night, but couldn't keep my eyes open and so woke early to finish it before setting off for Pamplona today.  I have yet to sort out how to post photos so they can wait till next time!

I spent some time last night adjusting my pack.  It hasn't been quit right and so hopefully today it will be like little bears porridge - just right!  Time to pack up and hit the road.  Till next time....….......