Tuesday 24 December 2013

Christmas Eve in Santo Domingo del Calzada

What a day!  It has had everything in it, and so let me start at the beginning.

In the albergue last night our numbers were expanded.  Patrice and Antonio from Italy were no where to be seen.  However the other two Italian men were there, along with the two Koreans, who have now been expanded to another 2 lots of 2 - making their numbers up to 6!  A man from Hungary joined us and a couple of Spanish men, and so it was quite a cosmopolitan bunch sitting around chatting before bed.

I was busy talking (what a surprise!) when it registered with me that I was actually in an albergue staffed and run by the Amigos group for the area, and thought I had better introduce myself.  As it turned out my counterpart was one of the hosts there, and so we conducted a pigeon / mime chat, and they gave me a pin.

The Koreans are the early risers in this group, and they were up as usual just before 6.30.  Walking in the dark in summer is fine, but holds no appeal for me in winter, and so I surface an hour later, along with the Italians.  I left in the half light about 8.00 and stopped at a bar for brekky before hitting the road.

The soil leaving (and entering) Najera, is the most gorgeous red.  It s not the bright red of the Simpson Desert, but the closest colour I can think of is the maroon of the Queensland rugby team, just slightly browner.  A lovely colour indeed.  I trundled briskly, through this coloured landscape with ploughed paddocks and vineyards (this is Rioja wine country).

I decided to leave my rain jacket off, and though there were a few spots I didn't have put it on at all.  I made remarkably good time into the gorgeous little village of Azofra.  Here, along with coffee, I had a surprise treat - I saw my first crane preening itself next to the church spire!

Again, I made good time to the odd village of Cirueña.  Odd, because the first part you see is like a housing development that has been built around a rather spiffy golf course.  In my muddy boots I barged in to the club house and thankfully had a great lunch snack, sitting up amongst the very well dressed golfers.  I say thankfully, because if I hadn't eaten I think I would have really struggled after lunch.

The club house has big picture windows, and sitting there looking through them the picture I had was of leaves being blown hither and yon.  Unfortunately leaves being blown so vigorously would mean that I would be too!  The forecast had a warning about wind and rain storms, and though the clouds were black, the rain had held off thus far.

I left the club house to cheerful "Buen Camino's" and entered another world!  I was nearly knocked off my feet!  For the next 7 kms I was buffeted from pillar to post.  The wind was so strong when I walked out I shut my mouth, and closed my eyes to about a pin hole and lent into the wind.  I was pushed and pulled along the path and was very glad that the path didn't go along the road, because I was like a drunk drifting uncontrollably from one side to the other.  My poles kept getting whisked to places that I didn't intend, and I had to be careful not to trip on them, but my feet were also sent to places I didn't intend either, and I had to be careful not to trip on my own feet!

The advantage of this blasting wind was that I made record time getting to Santo Domingo!  The entire walk into Santo Domingo I was surrounded by black clouds and rainbows, but where I was I was covered by patch of blue sky and sunshine, which followed me the entire way.  It tried hard to rain and periodically I was pelted with rain drops being pushed so hard they felt like needles, but nothing eventuated.  I would have had Buckleys hope of getting a rain coat on in that wind.  I went out a couple of hours ago to get some food for emergency rations for tomorrow - who knows what will be open, and it is now pouring.  I think the forecast is for rain tomorrow.

I have had several goes at posting this - partly because of interruptions and the last one was going to midnight mass, here in the Cistercian hotel that I am staying in.  I think the priest must have had midday nap and forgot the parishioners hadn't.  It was the longest sermon I have heard at mass!  One of the nuns had a bad cough, and they had a funny wheezy harmonium for accompaniment.  Interesting!

The albergue at Najera.

The historic church - built into the cliff, at Najera.

The plane trees, and what they look like while they still are awaiting pruning, and in the background those that have been done.  All the plane trees hear are pollarded, not like at home where they are allowed to grow up and out!

Just some of of the vineyards on today's path, in that red soil of Najera.

This statue just out of Azofra reminded me of Ned Kelly!


The path, the clouds, and the signs.

More clouds, more vineyards!

A pollarded tree entering Santo Domingo

Clouds and red soil.

 The crane preening itself on the church bell tower in Azofra.

Clouds and the rainbow which followed me all afternoon, and below, Santo Domingo in the sunlight as I walked was blown, towards it.







3 comments:

  1. Here it is a warm Christmas Day(about 34c).
    Wishing you a safe, Merry and joyful Christmas wherever the road may lead you!
    God bless xxxx vicki

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