Day three on the meseta. Let the pictures tell the tale!

Leaving Itero de la Vega.

It's 9.00 o'clock and barely light!

Because of last night's rain the track is muddy, though nowhere near as muddy as yesterday's path!

Jill sets a cracking pace when she takes the lead, which is quite often in the morning as I spend quite some time fluffing around taking photos!

We had a bit of a hill, not too steep just a steady rise, to climb leaving Itero de la Vega, and then a gentle descent into Boadilla del Camino.

After the descent it was a pleasant walk into the village.  There was one time when we had a heavy drizzle.  Jill began the day in full wet weather gear, whereas I only had my raincoat on.  When the drizzle started I just rolled up my trouser legs so I was wearing "shorts" and rolled them down again when it stopped.  This means that thus far I have avoided wearing my rain pants.  Mind you my bright red, wind whipped legs were a sight!

Entering Boadilla del Camino there is a nice little rest stop, with a sculptured pilgrim resting.  In the summer this spot generally has pilgrims resting too, but not on a day like today!  When I first visited Boadilla del Camino in 2005 there was a small municipal albergue and a large private one which had a swimming pool, and a very good restaurant.  Now there are at least 4 albergue, and a lovely private one, complete with a bar, just as you leave town.  This was where we stopped for lunch - homemade tortilla españa and homemade cake!

There is an interesting, maybe even grotesque, thing that Boadilla is famous for.  It is the "rollo" which stands at the back of the church.  In the 15th C the village was granted its independence.  To mark this important event they celebrated by erecting a gibbet (rollo) so that they could hang wrong doers without any intervention from the nobles!

Leaving Boadilla the path continued wet and at times muddy, but it had a beauty about it that I loved even in the mist!

Not long after leaving Boadilla the path follows the Canal de Castilla for about 4 - 5 kms.  This is still used for irrigation and is actually quite high.  At one point I estimate that this road (and the canal) was as much as 8 - 10 metres higher than the paddocks on the left.  This was one of four canals that were begun in the 1750's and took about 50 years to build.

The Camino crosses the canal on the outskirts of the town of Fromista.  We leave it to continue for many more kms, but away from the Camino.

We had an easy day today.  The distance was only about 14 kms but when we got here there no albergue open and so we are staying tonight in a hostal.  We are in a twin room, have our own bathroom, get supplied with brekky and all for €25 each!  This church is just outside our door.

This church above is often referred to as the "Jewell in the crown" of the Camino.  It is the church of San Martin and is famous for its capitals, which after all these years are mostly intact.  That's one in the photo below.  I have discovered that this is a scaled down replica of the cathedral at Jaca.

I have been looking carefully at the pollarded trees - and yes - they do join them.  This photo shows pretty clearly the joining of two different branches from two different trees.

As you can see from the photos, though most of the day was overcast, and at times drizzly, by the time we had arrived, completed our chores  and gone out to explore the sun was peaking through the clouds.

It is New years eve and we are perched up in our beds writing and typing.  I will be able to stick to my golden rule of making this the one day of the year that I am in bed before midnight.  I suspect our lights will be out by 9.00 - a really early night!  We need our beauty sleep as we have to be up for brekky at 8.30!

Day 2 on the Meseta, and even colder!

It is now evening in Itero de la Vega and it has begun to rain.  What's more, looking at the forecast we can expect to slip and slide our way all the way to Leon in about 5 days time!We slipped and slid a lot this afternoon and it hasn't rained for a few days and so that is the foretaste of things to come!

Today began however as a "sepia" kind of day.  We left the municipal albergue, tucked in at the top of the stairs right next to the church tower, which struck the hour and the half hour throughout the night, and crossed the road to the bar for brekky.  Jill wanted to know what would be on offer and my response was that it could be anything.  Today it was coffee and cake!

A "sepia" start to our day.

Hitting the road we discovered that, once we had left the shelter of the village, it was very frosty.  As well as freezing the mud and making it easier to walk, the frost also had the effect of taking the colour out of our world.  It was shades of brown all the way to Castrojeriz.

Walking towards Castrojeriz the path, and the road, go past, and through, the ruins of the convent of San Anton.  The monks here used to treat pilgrims who had Saint Anthony's fire, a skin disorder which if allowed to develop would lead to gangrene, and ultimately death.

Walking into Castrojeriz, we saw this church get gradually closer.  When I was here last, in 2007, this whole town was in a state of disrepair.  The roads were dug up and many buildings were at risk of collapsing.  Now this church looks as if it has been restored, the streets are all paved and the whole town looks much more prosperous.

We were feeling very peckish by the time we got there, but could find absolutely nothing open so kprosperous.through the town ready to do battle with a fairly hefty hill.  At the top we rested briefly, admiring the view and replenishing our fuel with some bread and cheese, before tackling the steep descent.  This part of the path is now concreted and so the stones and gutters that made this a tricky descent last time are no longer there.

Looking back towards Castrojeriz, showing clearly the path we followed.  The church in the photos above is actually on the other side of the hill out of sight.  This is a very long village which follows the contours around the hill.

The steep descent, after the climb.  When I walked this way in 2007 this path was a rocky, deeply rutted road.  It is now concrete, but no less steep!

A memorial to a pilgrim who died on this descent about five years ago.

Looking back towards the hill we climbed leaving Castrojeriz.  The white concrete on the descent stands out.

The albergue (closed for the winter) where the hospitaleros conduct a foot washing ceremony each night.

The bridge, Puente Itero, crossing the rio Pisuerga.  Once across this bridge we were in the province of Palencia.

Because today has been so cold it meant that we didn't linger on rest stops, but kept pushing forward.  There were parts of the road where we grew several inches from the mud, and so we were quite relieved to get to Itero de Vega before the rain came, which would have made it worse. We were even more relieved to find an albergue open, otherwise we would have faced another 8 km walk with no guarantee of an albergue being open.  Tonight's albergue even has a heater and so with luck our washing might be dry in the morning!

One thing I neglected to tell about yesterday was about the hunters.  As we walked into Rabe del Calzados I heard what I assume were shots being fired.  As we left the town we ran into the shooters - all 18 of them, complete with what I assume were quail hanging from their waist, and a variety of hunting dogs - from very large to very small - in tow, and all of them carrying guns!

Its late, Jill went to bed an hour ago, and I am tired.  I am even more tired of waiting for these photos to upload.  Thus, you will have to be content with one for now and I will try again another time.  ( photos now added!)

Day one on the Meseta, and it didn't rain, or blow!

Well this is the first day walking with Jill, who has absolutely no Camino experience and has done very well.  After checking out of the hotel we headed along the way, following both shells and arrows around the back of the cathedral, and before we knew it we were through the park and out into the open country.

Just for you caminoites!  This showed us the way out of Burgos

We stopped a couple of times to adjust Jill's equipment.  We had spent time the night before adjusting her pack, so there was only minor tweaking there, but there were a few adjustments to make to the poles.  I was out of my depth there, as I have no idea how Leki poles work best, being a Pacer Pole fan!

We have been blessed today in all sorts of ways, not least being the fine day we had.  We even managed some sunshine this afternoon AND there was no wind!

Once we had negotiated the rif raf of a city, things like the train lines, the busy freeway type roads an so on, we relaxed and got into the swing of walking, and we really started enjoying the sights and sounds.  I introduced Jill to the joys of seeing storks nests on church bell towers, drinking a cafe con leche, having lunch in a warm and cosy bar, and the far reaching views.

A monument as we walk into Tarjados

Instead of stopping in Rabe del Calzada, which would have made a very short day, we pushed onto Hornillos del Camino - only to find the albergue closed for disinfectant!  I tried to get us a room in a couple of different Casa Rurals to no avail!  I was just convincing Jill that I had always wanted to sleep in a church porch, and that we would be warm enough and safe enough sleeping there (Ramón, from Munich, also looked at sleeping in the porch - just told him we could have had a party!!), when along came  a man looking for a dog!  He couldn't hep us with a room, as so we continued to sit when along came another man looking for another dog, the same one as it turned out!  He couldn't help either, but 15 mins later he and his friend were back with a car to drive us here to Hontanas - it was too far to walk that late in the day.

Some of the path between Rabe and Hornillos

There went my chance to sleep in a church porch!  It took a lot longer because we went the longest possible way, and they got lost but we saw parts of the country we would not have otherwise seen!  They had fun too I think, and all because they were looking for a dog, which, when they left us they still hadn't found!

No time to post photos now will add them when I get a chance. Haven't proof read either excuse mistakes!  Photos now added!

The time issue

My son, Perran, was wondering why Spain does not have the same time as London.  He was surprised that it is an hour ahead.  Well, while wallowing in the bath and listening to the radio earlier this afternoon, I got the answer!

Apparently, back in 1942, Franco decided that he would align the clocks with Germany, rather than leave than as they were with England.  Thus the clocks were put forward an hour and so they have remained since then.  There are moves afoot to put them back an hour, but I don't know how likely that is.  Apparently the Spanish are the most sleep deprived, and it is thought that putting the clocks back an hour might help to change their lifestyle and help cut the leisurely lunch.  Can't see it happening - this is all a treasured part of their lifestyle from what I can see.

Decadence!

I have to begin this post with a big THANK YOU to all those who have sent emails and messages via the blog.  It is really appreciated.  I generally haven't had time to answer each individually, but know that I appreciate them.  Thanks again to you all.

I left this morning to go to the post office and post some things home.  No, I didn't come over here with too much, but one item was the wrong one - my raincoat.  I actually dithered as to which one to bring and dithered the wrong way!  I had to post the old one home (and the lining for my new one).

Consequently, I have had to lash out and buy a new one.  This is not wasted as it will hold me in good stead in the future, and most importantly it should keep me dry in the next three weeks of walking.  It is also designed better to keep me warmer in gale force winds.

I have been very decadent this afternoon!  When I got back from wandering around the city I was feeling quite cold and so as therapy I ran a very deep, hot bath, wallowing in it with a can of coke and a small packet of sugared almonds to give me sustanence, and with tablet tuned to ABC National! I also took the opportunity to wash my hair, in preparation for the 7 - 10 days ahead!

Clean hair has been an issue on this Camino.  I only wash my hair when I know I can dry it before going out.  As many of you know, I have a wash and wear attitude to my hair.  That works fine at home when on a 40degree day it is nearly dry before I am out the door.  Here though - different story!  If I went out with wet hair it would probably freeze, and then one would assume it would be prone to snapping off!  Now that wouldn't be a good look!  Thus, clean hair becomes a real treat!

Chemist's are a wonder - this is just one!

Now back to my wanderings around Burgos. In Spain I have always been struck by the evenings socialising by the locals.  A friend told me, on my first Camino, that the habit of going out each evening (usually well dressed) is called "dar un paseo" meaning to give a walk.  EVERYONE goes out - tiny wee babies, toddlers, children, teenagers and grownups of all ages,  meeting, chatting, playing, sharing stories over food and wine.  This is fine in the summer, but what about the winter?  Well I am delighted to report that it still goes on.  The difference is that the people tend to congregate in bars and stand in the street, instead of sitting in the squares etc.  They are rugged up against the cold, but the same energy and vibrancy is there as in the summer - great to see and be part of.  There is a real festive atmosphere in the streets in the afternoons and evenings. 

A view of the Cathedral across the river

The golden stairway in the Cathedral.

It's goal was to access the part of the Cathedral

eight metres higher on the other street.  This staircase was used as model for the opera in Milan.

some of the ornate stonework inside.

No explanation needed - gorgeous isn't it?!

Today I went on a tour of the cathedral again, as well as wandered the streets.  It is very cold, but the sun shines most of the time.  Last night there were quite heavy spells of rain, as I could hear it beating on my window pane.

Sorry, but I have to report some magnificent examples of pollarded plane trees here.  Bet you didn't know that word before - I didn't until I was doing my Diploma of Horticulture (hey - it is rude to laugh!).  The only place I know with pollarded trees at home is Hahndorf - the German heritage showing I guess.

Some of the pollarded trees look as if they have been trained into each other.

There are many delightful life sized statues scattered around Burgos.  Sometimes you get a real surprise when you come across them.  They sort of meld in with the people.

I am waiting for Jill to arrive.  She is a fellow Aussie who is going to walk the Meseta with me.  It will be nice to have some company.  Looking at the forecast we might get the first 2 days in without rain, snow maybe, but not rain!

The meseta is different to the path thus far and so don't be surprised if I am off line for a while.

It's COLD, and I am in Burgos!

As you can see from the post title I am in the city of Burgos - population 170,000 and an altitude of 860 metres.

Yesterday (boxing day) I decided I was in urgent need of a rest, with a comfy bed and no time constraints, and so when I got to Villafranca Montes de Oca I decided the time had come to hop on a bus.  There was a false start because I was given the wrong time first up, but eventually several hours later, a cafe con leche AND a Cola Cao later I was on a lovely warm bus (@ €2.48!) travelling through the rolling hills of the Montes de Oca,  looking at the patches of snow lying on the ground!  No wonder it was teeth chattering cold!  At the bus stop I watched, for over an hour, the temperature change between 1 & 2 degrees!

Brown was the colour of the day's landscape leaving Espinosa del Camino and heading into Villafranca Montes de Oca.

On the way the path passes the ruins of  Monasterio de San Felix de Oca

On the way into Villafranca there is now a much safer pedestrian only crossing of the Rio Oca, with pilgrims no longer having to share a bridge with heavy vehicle traffic!

In Burgos I found a hotel, so that I could sleep in, which is precisely what I did!  I turned off the light at around 9.30pm, and woke at 8.55am - nearly 12 hours later.  When I arrived I had the luxury of being able to soak in a long hot bath, and today I have come back to my room for a siesta, which involved another hours sleep!

The last time I posted was Christmas morning and so I have a couple of days catch up now.

Christmas Day dawned fine, but cold.  The rain during the night meant  that the Rio Oja, which I crossed on Santo Domingo's bridge, was a rushing brown torrent, quite different to the slow trickles I had seen in previous crossings.

Crossing the Rio Oja, Santo Domingo del Calzada.

Looking back at Santo Domingo in the early morning sunlight.

I kept getting lost in the town trying to leave.  At one stage I was so busy admiring the various ancient buildings that I found I was heading back the way I had come in the day before!

On the other side of the bridge I met a chap from Holland who was heading into town to try and catch a bus to Santiago.  He was the only person I spoke to all day!  This first part of the day was pleasant, little wind, clouds but no rain, and pleasant scenery to look at as I walked.

Fortunately before I left the hotel that morning I had put some cheese in a couple of "pan du lait's".  This was what I had for my Christmas dinner, and had it on the run, as from the village of Grañon the weather really deteriorated, with the wind coming up and drizzly rain as well.  It got bitterly cold, and I dragged out the extra mitten linings for added warmth.

Grañon, the only town where people were about, heading for the Panaderia to get their fresh bread for the day!

A surprise in Grañon - this christmas tree was in the plaza. 

The path leaving Grañon.  I headed down the hill to the far side of the dark brown paddock on the left and turned left!

Unfortunately there was absolutely nothing open in Belorado, one of my favourite Camino towns, and so as the sun was getting very low on the horizon, I pushed on up the hill to try and get to the town of Vilambistia where the albergue was meant to be open.  I was comforted by the fact that someone was ahead of me as I had been following footprints all day.

I have stayed in this albergue (the yellow building
 on a previous occasion.  This time I sat on the other green seat that you can't see and ate my Christmas lunch of bread and cheese, washed down with water!

One of the churches in Belorado, complete with its storks nests.

A close up of the stork's nest.  I was reading that they mate for life and keep returning to the same nest year after year to raise their young.

Pollarded Plane trees in the main square in BBelorado

This is the bridge crossing the Rio Tirōn after leaving Belorado.  Again this is quite a torrent from the overnight rains

Arriving at Vilambistia in the dark - I just couldn't push myself any faster - I was greeted by a firmly shut albergue, or "close-ed" as a young boy informed me.  I was absolutely bushed and was trying to decide if I could put on all my clothes, wrap my sleeping bag around me an sleep under the porch, out of the wind on a couple of chairs that were there.

I didn't have to fortunately!  I flagged down a car driving out, and asked about accommodation.  Señor told me to go to Espinosa it was only 2kms away.  The trouble was that it might just as well have been 20 - I was incapable of going any further (and this is a woman who has walked 52kms another time!).  I asked if they could take me and so Señora organised her son, in the car following, to take me.  Then, as I was about to get into his car she stopped me, gave me a hug and planted a kiss on either cheek.  Just writing about this little kindness makes my eyes teary!

Anyway folks the night ended well.  I was delivered to the bar, the proprietor of which was also the hospitalero, who then took me in hand, opening up the albergue, lighting the gas hot water and turning on a heater in the bedroom. He then told me to come over to the bar when I was ready for a coffee.  He made me an omelette "sandwich", read bread roll, a delicious coffee, some christmas sweet delicacies, and then I was off to bed.  Oh, and he too had a gorgeous Nativity scene set up in his dining room.

The Nativity scene in the bar at Espinosa del Camino.

My bed in the albergue.  I was careful where I walked, as the floor boards had quite a spring in them!

My cheerful host making sure I was headed in the right direction.

Before going to bed I was so cold I reckon it was an hour before my skin started feeling warm.  Mind you I am delighted with my new One Planet sleeping bag.  It is perfect, light, warm, and very comfy, even used in the eccentric way I use it, as a doona!

My barman friend opened up so that I could have brekky before leaving.  No wonder I felt cold as I set off.  As I got to the top of the hill I discovered that even the trickling run off from the paddocks had frozen in mid trickle!, though there was no frost.

I am delighted to have this rest here in Burgos.  I have been pushing pretty hard, and I know that the next 10 days will likely be pretty strenuous with the likelihood of snow down to 6 - 700 metres!  More about Burgos later - bed calls!

Just some of the ChristmaAsdecorations in Burgos - outside, and in the shop windows.

The rear of the Cathedral in Burgos, showing some of its fancy stonework.