Three Kings Day - Dia de los Reyes Magos

Actually, this is far more than a day, and has quite a lead up.  This is the day that the magi arrived to visit the Christ child and is on January 6th.

I had seen snippets over the years on news broadcasts about the Three Kings festival but really knew little about it.  Here, in Spain the three kings are everywhere, and when I arrived in Leon on the afternoon of the 4th of January I had the advantage of an advance look at it.  For example, that evening on television there was a movie about three modern kings, complete with a message about giving and looking out for people.  I might add I THINK that was the message, given that it was in Spanish, which I don't speak.  News broadcasts also came with reports from various major cities around the country on how preparations were going for their various parades.  Even shows like Junior Master Chef made special things only eaten at this time!

Just one of the window displays - los Reyes arriving in different countries!

After a good nights sleep I went out exploring my favourite Spanish city.  Reb had told me about the special cakes that are eaten at this time and in Leon these are called Roscón de Reyes.  They are like a round yeast bun, with brightly coloured glaced fruit decorating them, presumably signifying jewel's at a guess.  The cakes graced cabinets in the cafes and were a feature in windows of other shops.  I saw many people leaving shops with carefully wrapped cakes of varying sizes.

Roscón de Reyes.

One of the three kings in the procession. (Gaspar)

The man in blue ISN'T wearing a fur coat, 

but the woman walking away from him IS!

The Kings came to Leon in a big parade, but apparently they arrive in every village.  Rebekah and Patrick were telling me that they arrive on a tractor in Moratinos and in other places they arrive on a train.  On news items I saw them walking up snow capped mountains and then skiing down - in full king regalia including wigs and beards, though in the snow they did add sun glasses to their outfit!

I am so glad I made the effort to see the parade in Leon.  It was huge!  Hundreds of thousands of people of all ages lined the streets to watch it.  The parade itself was simple compared to the Christmas parade that I have grown up with (South Aussies read the Christmas Pageant here), but it was fascinating none the less.

The parade had acrobats (but clowns!), a float carrying a donkey and an ox, and then walking along with their shepherds, a flock of sheep.  What a treat to see - these sheep would stop when their shepherds turned to them, and then start walking again when the shepherds turned and walked, quite extraordinary to see.  The whole procession, though not long compared to our pageant was very slow, no hurry at all, and watching the people was nearly as interesting as the procession itself.  This is a time for EVERYONE - not just the young.  Young children were out with their families, teenagers were out together, grandparents were there with their grandchildren, and then there were people of all ages with partners or friends but not with children.  All were rugged up gainst the cold, and many women were there in their fur cots of varying lengths an hues!  I have never seen so many fur coats as in the past week or so, and they were out in force on Three Kings Eve!

The Three Kings each had their own float and were assisted by numerous pages.  Assisted doing what you ask?  To hurl missiles, in the form of boiled sweets, into the crowd!  Everyone, with the exception of the float carrying the animals and the shepherds with their sheep, were throwing these sweets into the crowd, but with the arrival of the kings this reached a new frenzy, and they came thick and fast.  I got about half a dozen and I wasn't even trying, one even landing in my scarf while I was watching, but there were children with plastic bags in which they collected their bounty!  Even the elderly men and women were busy jostling and picking the (wrapped) sweets off the street.

At one point (I walked along the procession for a bit) there were a group of children watching from a window.  They were chanting, in a vain effort to get his attention, Balthazar, Balthazar. …. I wonder how many Australian adults would know the names of the magi, let alone children!

The next day, Dia de los Reyes Magos, Leon was VERY quiet.  It took a long time to liven up, and towards the end of the day I noticed that many of the people leaving homes were loading toys like dolls cradles, toy furniture etc into cars.  Obviously the Kings had visited these children!

An interesting and an enlightening time to be in Leon, that most attractive of Spanish city, and to see and hear how the Spanish celebrate this festival.

PS - photos to come - I hope!!!!!!