I have had a couple of interesting days. Yesterday began super early when I caught the bus down the hill to Triacastela. Overnight the snow had started to melt because it had started to rain, and that, combined with the fact that after negotiating the ridge, probably about 8 - 10 kms of slushy snow, there is a very steep descent. I nearly ended up on my backside a number of times last time I was here, I didn't think it necessary to repeat the performance! Leaving, in the dark because the bus came at 6.45, was quite an adventure, with huge puddles everywhere that were well camouflaged by the snow!
The trouble with catching the bus so early was no bars were open. It was still pitch black and there was no way that I was going to set off in the pouring rain, in the dark. Fortunately I found a bus shelter where I could take refuge until a bar opened so that I could have some brekky.
Last time I was in this area I went from Triacastella to Samos, home of well known monastery. This time it was my plan to go direct to Sarria as I hadn't been that way. As I left I thought it highly unlikely that I would get any decent photos because I suspected the camera would stay safely in its waterproof house. However, I was delighted after I'd been walking an hour or so, to find that the rain stopped and for what was left of the day I was able to walk with my hood off at least.
This path is lovely, going through ancient oak forests, and equally ancient hamlets consisting of a few farmhouses gathered together in a little group.
On the path from Triacastela to Sarria
These hamlets are not really villages, and thus they don't have a bar or such facilities in them. It wasn't until I was 4 kms from Sarria that I found a bar open. Was I glad too, as I hadn't eaten since Triacastela. What an experience this turned out to be! It looked to me as if they were renovating the exterior, and at a guess they had just completed renovating the interior. I entered the bar, and couldn't attract anyone's attention, despite the fact that my hola's were getting louder and louder. After going back outside and knocking on a door further down I was ushered inside to the kitchen where another pilgrim I know was having lunch. The señora whistled up a fresh tortilla potata for me and at everyone's suggestion I had as my first course caldo Galicia. This was all topped off with some delicious left over Christmas biscuits. After all that food the last thing I felt like doing was walking 4 km for a bed! I just about rolled into town!
The albergue in Sarria was very crowded, and I think there was only one spare bed, the reason I decided to get out of the loop with the crowds. Mind you 28 is not a crowd compared to the summer season, but it felt like crowd to me.
Leaving Sarria I was greeted by a young student being dropped at school with a "Buen camino". It so nice that people of all ages take the time to give that greeting as you walk by.
Leaving Sarria in the rain.
Just one of the magnificent old, knarled trees on the path leaving Sarria.
Just like the walk to Sarria yesterday, the walk from there was filled with little hamlets. It was also filled, as was yesterday, with the smell of cow dung, the sweet smell of hay that has been wrapped up in plastic, and of course the sound of running water. Galicia is a wet, green place all year, but at this time of the year it is oozing water. The paths turn into streams as the waterlogged soil can hold the water no longer. There are little waterfalls from the banks on the side of the path, and if this happens to be where the cows travel it is often a quagmire.
Slippery leaves, hiding sqelchy mud….
running water......
and cows were just some of the obstacles for the day!
But even in the mist and rain there was much that was fascinating, and beautiful!
The first reasonably sized village, but not big enough to warrant a bar open at this time of the year, is Barbadelo. As I approached this village I noticed a parked car and when I got within shouting distance a man got out and waited for me. He wanted to know if I would like to see the church and get a sello (a stamp in my pilgrim passport). He led the way, and of course, I didn't miss the opportunity to have a sing! He gave no comment whatsoever! His job for the day was obviously to waylay pilgrims as they came along, and in the process get a few donations for the church.
The Church of Santiago, Barbadello, and below, looking back at the village and the church.
Not much else to tell about this day, the path wound through hamlets and forest. There were views of of dry stone all yards, the path was often fenced with dry stone walls, and just lots of moss, trees and water with a few cows to negotiate every so often! I hope the photos tell it all.
The dry stone walls of Galicia, marking the fields,…
...and the running water, are both symbolic of this region.
So many lichen covered trees. This is obvious in the winter, not so obvious in the summer when they are covered in leaves.
I do need to add a PostScript here though for those of you who are putting dates and places I am reporting on together. Yes you are right! I have moved on and am now in Palais de Rais. You'll have to wait for an update.
I remember Ferririos albergue very well - it was packed to the gills and we had a friendly happy spaniard who must have been the loudest snorer on all the camino. I didn't sleep a wink, pilgrims were throwing their boots across the aisle trying to get him to stop! In the morning it was chaos in the bathroom and I remember having to clean my teeth right next to the one and only urinal that was being used at the time! The joys of albergue living!
ReplyDeleteHope Galacia isnt too boggy for you on your last days. You must be getting close to smelling the eucalypts in the forest. enjoy your last 100kms or so, buen camino.