I left Villafranca this morning, a cold and misty world. I had hoped to catch the bus up the mountain, but it doesn't go on a Sunday. My next option was to try and hitch, but the weak attempt I made at that was unsuccessful, and last, this option, was to walk until I found somewhere to stop, stay the night and catch the bus in the morning. My knee is about 50% better, and so I don't want to undo the benefit of the rest I had yesterday, and I would like to get it down to a niggle at the most.
Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo
The walk up the valley beside the Rio Valcarce is pretty easy. The gradient, though ascending, is gentle, and not really noticeable. The river runs beside the path and, when flowing over rocks, has quite a roar to it. In the summer months it is a tranquil rippling stream which often can't be seen because of the leafy trees. At this time of year though it is a different story. The river often noisy, can easily be seen through the bare trees!
The path follows what used to be the main road. Now there is little traffic on it, though the big freeway on the left, which now carries the traffic is far from quiet! Before the big freeway was built pilgrims had a risky walk up this valley as the concrete barrier is a new addition only put there after the freeway was built.
A house on the roadside at Pereje
The river through the trees, the freeway high
on the left
When I stayed in Trabadelo in 2007 I was not impressed with it. I must say this time around I have changed my mind totally! Then, it seemed dull and dirty, and not very friendly, now it is the opposite. I reckon the whole village is here, or has dropped by. The women are sitting near the fire , taking it in turns to take a wee bub for a "walk", and the fellas are also taking it in turns to a amuse him/her. All ages are interacting with this little person, who is a real smiler, and is just starting to "walk". Even though I am not talking (I let my fingers do that when I am on the Camino!), I am part of the group, with the little one being paraded past me at frequent intervals.
The dormitory in the albergue.
Part of being on the Camino is to arrive, have a shower and do the chores for the day, then lounge around. For various reasons I haven't done much of that, lounging I mean, this Camino, but today I can! I might even have a siesta!
Oh how I remember that walk. Except we started in the dark and it was quite a while before it got light. But the river could be heard even if not seen
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